How To Frame a Door

Framing a door is a simple process provided you do a little advance planning. Because any DIY construction process should emphasize safety first, it’s essential to maintain structural support around and above the doorframe while you work. The good news is that years of experience have taught carpenters the best way to create rock-solid door frames, and in most cases this project can be completed in an afternoon.

Before you begin, it’s useful to give some thought to the placement of the door. Too close to one corner or another and you run the risk of creating an uncomfortable fit or a damaged wall. If the door frame is floating out in space, on the other hand, it could interfere with design plans that might otherwise make use of a long, unbroken border. Think about whether you are planning to put couches, shelves or a bed in that room, then sketch out your plan accordingly.

Most walls are essentially grids inside of reinforced boxes comprised of a sole or shoe plate, studs and a double top plate. Depending on where you want your door to go, it may be necessary to remove one of the existing studs. This shouldn’t pose a structural problem, as you will shortly replace it with two more studs, but it’s important to brace the ceiling until that installation is complete!

Measure the center of the door location and halve the door’s width on each side, allowing three extra inches for the door facing. These marks define where you will install the king studs - 2x4s that get nailed both to the base plate to the top plate, essentially running vertically parallel to the doorway and acting as full and uninterrupted reinforcement for the room.

Next come the jack studs – 2x4s cut to the height of the door, plus another inch or inch-and-a-half allowance. These are fitted plumb inside the king studs and define the doorway’s sides, creating a template to which the door jamb will be nailed. The jack studs must be nailed both to the king studs and the base plate, creating a snug and plumb fit. Be sure the ends are level, as you will soon be laying an additional piece across the opening.

This additional piece is called the header, and it’s comprised of two 2x4s nailed together and cut to span the void over the doorway. The header is also nailed to the jack studs and king studs, creating a solid frame that extends past the dimensions of the door by a few inches on each side.

You’re ready for the final piece of reinforcement: cripple studs. Despite their name, these additional vertical studs are quite strong, adding considerable structural integrity to the form and ensuring the doorway will not shift or warp. Cripple studs are 2x4s as well, cut to fit between the header and top plate at three points: the center and both sides of the door frame. The two side-cripples get nailed to the king studs as well, essentially continuing the line of the jack studs from below the header.

The final step is to cut away the base plate under the doorway, allowing the same extra space on both sides for the jamb itself. Take a step back and eyeball your work to ensure everything is where it should be. Anything you have toenailed gets fully nailed at this point, and your level should reveal less than a flawless alignment.

Installing the door jamb from here is simple. Most door jambs come already assembled, so essentially all you need to do is slide it into place. Additional steps may include adding and cutting sheathing to fit the frame, and including a “filler strip” to ensure the installation is completely snug on all sides.

One word of warning: bearing walls can be subject to strict zoning ordinances, so you may want to check your plans with an expert before undergoing any radical home improvements. If the wall is sheetrock instead of drywall, you will also need to score the doorway and carefully demo it with a claw hammer or something heavier. As with all demolition, remember to wear safety goggles and lay down drop cloths to protect your home’s floor.

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