Basic Home Faucet Repair

Anyone who has dealt with a leaky faucet knows firsthand what a nuisance it can be. If the problem isn’t the constant sound of dripping, it may just as well be the considerable damage consistently flowing water can cause to your sink’s basin. Address both these problems and you are still left with the most maddening of all – wasted water than can add up quickly in just a few months. The good news is that fixing a broken faucet is usually quite simple to do, and all you need to get started is a few basic tools and a rudimentary knowledge of the four different faucet types.

By far the most common type of faucet is also the oldest: compression faucets. These work, unsurprisingly, by applying pressure to the valve in the form of a rubber washer. As you turn the handles, a screw drives the rubber washer into the space to create a tight seal. The problem is that so much mechanical duress will inevitably compromise the integrity of any washer, leaving you with an incomplete seal. The result? Leaking that cannot be ceased no matter how hard you turn.

Thankfully, compression faucets are among the easiest types to repair. Before you begin, you will want to shut off water to the area and clog the drain with a towel or cloth – this keeps screws and other parts from slipping into your home’s plumbing system. Most homes employ simple handles that can be unscrewed manually, giving you instant access to the stem, washer and valve seat. Look for the part that has eroded over time – this is most likely a washer, though especially old homes may use twine or thread instead. Check the size and replace it with a matching part, and you should expect a flawless seal for many years to follow.

Cartridge faucets may be simpler still. So named because they supplant the washer with a formed square stopper, cartridge faucets offer roughly the same advantages and disadvantages of an all-in-one stereo: you don’t need to worry about mixing and matching components, but when one goes, the whole device may be shot. Because the cartridge and stem are fused into a single piece, you will likely need to replace the entire assembly once the seal has eroded over time. Be wary of getting the right gauge and wrong configuration, however – cartridge faucets come in one-handled varieties that require you line up both holes exactly.

Disc faucets are growing more common as homeowners seek smooth and elegant designs that can blend temperatures with ease. All disc faucets use two discs that may be polymer or ceramic, and these glide across one another as you twist the handle. Because they rely less on friction and more on precision design to open and close seals, disc faucets are often less prone to the kind of wear you get from more traditional washer designs. Even ceramics, however will eventually succumb to water, meaning you may need to replace one or both discs in the event of a leak. Loosen the handle with its set screw and remove the escutcheon cap for easy access. Check the O-rings and discs thoroughly for any signs of cracking or wear, looking carefully for hairline fractures. If either disc is compromised, you will likely need to replace the entire cylinder – not cheap, but hardly a disaster.

The final faucet variety, known as the ball faucet, is easy to diagnose. These may be the most prone to leaks for the simple reason that they encourage a full range of motion with countless small parts. The good news is that it’s exceedingly simple to get inside and isolate the problem – loosening one set screw will open the column. Try tightening the locking collar first – often this can become loose from so much motion. If the leak persists, you will need to get at the ball itself by popping off the domed cap and removing the cam. Check the ball for signs of dirt or wear, and replace it if age seems to have taken its toll. In nine out of ten cases, your problems will vanish immediately.

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